What I wish many in the industry would realise is that some current vehicles from Japan especially have paint that is too thin to abrasively correct and the fact that abrasive correction alone is not the way to a perfect finish. it actually affects paint clarity and depth

so will GI ever release a long term non oil filling line of paint restoration products to cater for thin paint or those wanting to chemically reverse oxidation without removing any paint, flattening orange peel without sanding (which I do currently) and more.

What??? the evp is not filling anything as I do IPA wipedowns to prove this, as for removing orange peel without levelling the paint how can that be done, this I am really curious to hear about so please expound with info.

Nah nah, when cars that have paint that is too thin to polish like some new toyota's or that have been compounded too much by hackers, it would be awesome to fill all of it in and lock it in for at least a year

orange peel can be buried , I have buried almost all the orange peel in my paint via paint reflow products which I've been using for a couple years. it takes high speed and very slow movements but it's possible

there are many times that I get to quote vehicles with paint that is too thin (see primer dots as soon as I start moving the machine around (rotary) with a finishing polish and pad (menzerna) so having a long term filling line would help those do any car regardless of thickness

purists hate the idea of filling (whether with silicate, oils or whatever) but most last a year or more and it has it's place

11 y/o factory PPG 2K solvent based paint (no sanding done at all)
YouTube - The Dream Machines shine shop with Prima and Menzerna paint correction then GLARE products








YouTube - The Auriga project - how good can we get the paint

another vehicle

Dreamshine,

I appreciate you participation on the forum and the positive feedback you have given regarding gloss-it on other forums. Some of the terms and definition you state or not correct. Gloss-it spends 100's of hours researching different types of paint finish's (domestic and imported, including japan paint finish) and how they react to not just our abrasives but also the competition.

Yes, it true if paint is to thin not recommend to aggressively polish/cut. I would like to see you take some paint readings with an accurate paint gauge on every major body panel. Anything less then 4mils is very risky and not worth correcting. Why temporarily mask, this is not correction is miss leading?

Gloss-it polishes were developed to be safe in correcting with the right amount of cut, lowering the potential risk of burning through causing permanent damage..

Gloss-it is not a oil or solvent base polish, but water base emulsion. If a client want to mask or fill they should really consider refinishing or painting their vehicle then using a temporary filling or masking situation which is just a waste of good money!

Dont' get me wrong the pictures look great, but please show us some direct sun shots to truly determine the final results

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okay I will do, all the sun shots I've done so far are pretty amazing. flawless.
I took readings of all the cars I have done this process on
mine has 220 microns on the roof and 110 everywhere else (roof was repainted)

there is still that much on the paint as this process obviously doesnt remove any
when I do correct paint, I only remove a tiny amount as I don't use strong abrasives such as Powergloss, Hi temp extreme cut or any 600 to 1200 grit levellers)
I use a product to soften the paint and make paint correction easier (finishing pad with gloss it or menz final finish) and more effective and once that's done and the lacquer or sealant applied, it slightly hardens the paint

please keep an open your mind to the ability for long term filling. nothing is impossible, we just have to find the way.

the products I use which are a special mix of my own and also one brand that you probably tested that's from nevada (almost everyone uses those products wrongly)
these do not use oil to fill, the filling is done via silicate and each product locks the previous one into the paint and it becomes part of the paint, thus no filler wash out.

the filling durability depends on how well it's applied. the guru of this stuff is in australia and can get years and years of durability with no filler wash out.

of course correction is realistic not fake but there is only so much shine that abrasives can give and there is always a place in my shop for doing the long term filling/paint restoration process to reverse oxidation, chemically deep clean the clear and bury orange peel as I've done on many vehicles.

anyhow I'll get some sun shots for you and we will get back to talking about the gloss it line.
I am definately ordering EVP and about half of the range in a week or two
EVP is amazing

I just wanted to keep your minds open to other possibilities and add something different to the forum.
I'm always working on something radical, especially machine polishing unpainted ext moldings for a permanent black finish with my own custom product blends.
that's my most unique service as well as lacquer coating every surface of a car.

You should be fine then with those readings. Like Rich said, you can use less aggressive polishes to achieve correction while removing a minimum of paint. I use very gentle finishing polishes on my car, but do it multiple times so I take the least amount of paint off possible. Thats really interesting how innovative you are in finding unique combinations of technique and product to achieve results. However, you said that you want to achieve paint correction without abrasives. True paint correction involves mechanically leveling the paint regardless of using chemicals or abrasives to achieve a defect free surface. Removing oxidization can be done chemically as well, but you know that probably better than I do...
I think Rich doesnt like hiding things so thats why he believes in Gloss-it and his products.

Hello Christian, thanks for posting
I like your idea, very smart. I think what gets people annoyed is when someone says "paint correction without abrasives"
what I'm doing with these non abrasive products is paint restoration. deep cleaning the paint to increase optical clarity then filling (but without hiding metallic flakes, they actually enhance the flake) all the defects and in the process, any oxidation is reversed and fallout is dissolved

Yeah its understandable to not want to hide things and mechanical levelling with abrasives has a bigger role to play in paint care, however the shine achievable by removing paint with every buff over time is not as good as using non abrasive products on a just corrected or previously corrected finish, IMHO and personal experience

correct the paint 2 to 5 times (I've done three) and then switch to non abrasives and build on the paint with our permanent lacquer or the non abrasive products that I use or others.
perhaps GI's products of this type.

At this point Dream Shine, what you are saying is I want something hot...... but cold, sweet....... but sour,up..... but down. In your pic of the trunk lid I hate to point this out but the wing HAS orange peel texture, I can think out of the box like anyone, however there has to be a box in the first place.

Removing substrate without levelling???????????????? what in the H**l are you talking about, enough already time to shake yourself.

That sounds interesting. Without divulging your secrets, what do you mean by applying a laquer? If you add on some clear filler product, how would that enhance paint clarity if the paint under it is not prepped?